My daughter, Mary, is spending a semester in Spain and recently traveled to the magical city of Seville. I asked Mary and her friend, Lucy, to share the greatest hits of their weekend. I hope their recommendations will inspire you as much as they did me.
1. Give three words (each of you) to describe the city of Seville
Mary: creative, vibrant, calm
Lucy: colorful, winding, timeless
2. Which three historical sites are a must and why?
Cathedral and Giralda: Sprawling and filled with beautiful architecture, stained glass, and art, both sites offer a good way to get an understanding of the deep religious influence on the city. The cathedral's altar was one of the most magnificent we've ever seen. Go to the top of the Giralda for an expansive view of the city.
Plaza de Espana for classic tile work and Spanish architecture. Music was playing in every corner, and we walked around the bridges to admire the $6 rowboats and horse carriages. Created for the World’s Fair in 1929, the Plaza tells the history of Spain through tiled artwork throughout.
The Royal Alcazar: With green gardens, Moorish architecture, and fascinating history, the Palace is the oldest in Europe that is still being used by a royal family. It is a must-do in order to understand the Moorish influence on the history of Seville and Andalusia.
3. What is something you did in Seville that was surprising or unexpected?
We booked a $25 cruise on the Rio de Guadalquivir at sunset, and it was a wonderful experience! We had Iberian ham, Manchego cheese, and the region’s cocktail, a Rebujito. While a sunset river cruise the weekend of Valentine’s Day was probably not the best decision for two girls in their 20s, we had a wonderful time seeing Tirana, the older and more residential neighborhood on the other side of the river, and passing under the city's famous bridges. The University of Seville’s rowing team was also out on the water so we got to see them in action! It was a great way to see how lively the city is even on the water. We highly recommend the cruise followed by a drink at one of the riverside bars!
4. Was there a neighborhood you liked best?
Our favorite neighborhood was Santa Cruz, still known as the Jewish Quarter. It has a fascinating if tragic history, having been a vibrant center of Jewish life from the 13th to the 15th centuries before Jews who refused to convert to Christianity were expelled in 1492 by the new Catholic monarchs. Located between the Alcazar and the Cathedral, the area has tapas bars along every orange-tree-lined street and musicians playing on every corner. The small, winding, cobblestone streets were easy and welcoming for us to get lost in as we wandered between restaurants, souvenir shops, and plazas that opened off the narrow, labyrinthine streets.
5. Are there a few restaurants or bars you would recommend?
For a true tapas vibe, Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas has people spilling from its doors in the evening, eating, drinking, and smoking late into the night. A truly modern Spanish experience.
Restaurante el Giraldillo allowed us to drink many mojitos in the 75 degree February sun! Its location right next to the Cathedral offered a a lovely view.
My mom loved El Rinconcillo for an authentic lunch in a stucco and wood-paneled room with Iberian hams hanging from the ceiling and regulars crowded around the bar. The restaurant recently celebrated its 350th anniversary.
Charlotte, our resident Spain guide, recommends Los Alcalarenos for a quick bocadillo y cerveza in a more quiet area.
By the end of our week we were craving something other than Spanish food, so we stopped into L’Oca Giuliva for some fresh pasta and pizza! Delicious!
Overall, we loved being able to walk into any restaurant and be confident that it would be good. We aren’t the best planners, but Seville lends itself well to wandering, so wander we did! It was the best way to find a restaurant!
6. Do any shops come to mind?
I love stumbling upon shops that remind me of my mom! She has the best eye, and I always get excited to send her a picture of pottery or art or antiques that I know she will love. With that in mind, Populart and Armando Arts and Crafts were the two stores I enjoyed most, both filled with very Reed Smythe-esque goods!
7. What are the local delicacies that one should try when visiting Seville? A drink, a dessert, a meal?
Any tapas! We have been loving coquetas de jamon and pan con tomate. For drinks, we tried rebujitos and tinto de verano, both Spanish classics! And churros from Bar el Comercio.
8. What is the best way to begin a morning in Seville
Our favorite morning was spent taking a long walk in María Luisa Park and then sitting on a bench with coffees!
9. What is the best way to end an evening in Seville?
We found a beautiful rooftop bar to end our first night with a drink while watching the sunset over the Cathedral. There are many in Seville, but we went to Bar Mirador in Hotel Da Vinci. A beautiful view!
10. So far, what has your favorite city in Spain been?
Seville! Easily! The streets were filled with people and music and colors! The sun was out every day, and we didn’t want the days to end. It's such a beautiful place filled with history and life!
